The discovery of pepper in Calicut of Kerala, India, in addition to other spices, by European adventurers led to bitter rivalry between the powerful states of Portugal and Spain during the 15th and 16th centuries to gain control of the world’s spice trade. It also led to the formation of the world’s first business cartel, the Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (VOC) in 1602, which by 1670 was the world’s richest corporation with 50,000 employees, 30,000 soldiers and 200 ships. Such is the fascinating history of spices.
In Nepal, specifically in Kathmandu, Bhai Ratna Bajracharya is believed to be the country’s first trader of spices. He began the business about half a century ago, and his shop, ‘Shankha Pasal’ in Kothunani, Ason, is still up and running, though of course, being run by succeeding generations. Shankha means conch and pasal means shop, so “Conch Shop’. Now here’s why it’s called that: initially, it sold conches brought in from the shores of the southern India coastline. And, since South India is rich in spice cultivation, the spice trade must surely have been an obvious addition to the business. Today, too, if you want to buy good quality spices, make a beeline for the very same Ason Bazaar in the heart of Kathmandu. It has many, many, shops selling a veritable plethora of exotic spices.
Now, what are the spices most commonly used in Nepal? Here’s an excerpt from ‘The Study of Spices in Nepal’, a 1984 Japanese study, 1. The Chhetri people usually use methi, beshar, jeera, jwano, tejpat, lahsun, aduwa, khursani, and rayo. 2. The Newars use methi, beshar, jeera, dhaniya, jwano, lahsun, aduwa, khursani, Nepali sunp, and tejpat. 3. The Tamangs use methi, beshar, jeera, dhaniya, jwano, lahsun, aduwa, and khursani. 4. The Sherpas use lahsun, aduwa, khrusani, dhaniya, jeera, and methi, and also the wild spices ermarg, koma, and zimbu.
It is clear that spices of Nepal, all over the country, are similar, though in different ways. Among the many seasoning varieties at hand, one of the most popular is ‘garam masala’, a mixture of a dozen spices. It is used to flavor many dishes, especially meat. Garam means hot and masala means spice, so, it is easy to deduce that it imparts heat and is particularly beneficial in the cold months. What does this popular mixture contain? Equal quantities of dhania (coriander), jeera (cumin seeds), methi (fenugreek), besar (turmeric), sukmel (cardamom), elaichi (black cardamom), dal chini (cinnamon), marich (black pepper), tez pata (bay leaf), luang (clove), jaifal (nutmeg), and saipatri (mace).
